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  • Joel Anderson

The last little cold snap really helped things along! It's not all good news though.

Bad Rock Canyon is having water issues and may not come in this season.

Stone Hill is trying but needs some colder temps. There are a couple bolted dry tool routes that are worth checking out if you're into it.

Crevice formed up a little different this year but it's currently climbable with a good lead head. A 70m rope reaches the upper anchors or a 60m will work if your ok with the sketchy traverse to get to the anchors on the right. There are also some new anchors above the right side of the lower curtain if you feel like climbing some short, steep hot laps. There is still some thin ice so be delicate and let it form up thick.


Serenity Falls is in OK shape. Safely climbable but stay off the thin ice and let it thicken up. It's a little snowy but the left side climbs well.


  • Joel Anderson

In and out, in and out. That's how ice climbing season has felt so far. We had an abundance of unseasonably warm weather in December up until now. We need these incoming cold temps and hopefully that will get us back on track.

I've had some kind folks sending me info on what our local ice climbs have been doing and I have done a little scouting myself. Here's what I've got!

Serenity Falls 1/10/20

Upper falls is thin but safely climbable. Just be delicate.

Lower Falls still needs some time to fully freeze over but it's looking much better than last week.

The pillar has fallen. Thankfully! It was barely hanging on and now its safe to be at the base.



Cascade Cascade(C2) 12/29/19

Right side looks quite thin but the left still climbs. 13cm screws just poke through to the space behind the ice.



Crevice 1/4/20

Still needs time and some cold temps to get into good condition. The creek is frozen though!




  • Joel Anderson

Ice season is upon us! I'll start with a little ice conditions update.

Its WARM! Jason and I attempted to climb Monument Falls in Glacier NP today. We geared up by headlamp and were climbing the approach pitch at first light. With the warm temps and recent snow the climbing was sub par. What is usually an easy solo was snowy, crusty, wet and insecure so we roped up. At the top of that pitch we decided that was a preview of what the climbing would be like the rest of the day. It was a unanimous decisions to bail and head back to town.


Most of the routes in Avalanche are climbable, they are just in early season conditions and now have 4-8 inches of snow on them.

Mt. Cannon and its fine routes seemed to be falling apart. The lower parts of most routes were all but melted out.

In addition, the avalanche conditions have been considerable(orange) since Saturday's(12/7) storm and what slopes haven't slid yet are loaded and ready to go.

Note the LARGE debris field below.


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